GuideRaised Garden Beds
Build an Elevated Planter Box on Legs (Waist-High Garden)
An elevated planter lifts the soil to waist height, so you can plant, weed and harvest standing up or from a chair. It is ideal for herbs and salad on a patio or balcony, and it keeps slugs and rabbits at a distance. This design is a shallow box on four strong legs.
What you will build
You will build a box about 4 ft long and 2 ft deep (1.2 m × 60 cm), roughly 9 in (23 cm) deep inside, standing on four legs so the top sits about 32 in (80 cm) above the ground. The bottom is made of slats with small gaps for drainage, lined with landscape fabric so the soil stays in.
A box this size full of wet soil is heavy, so the legs run all the way up the inside corners of the box and are screwed to every board. A rail around the legs near the ground stops them from racking sideways. If you need to sit at it in a wheelchair, leave out the lower rail on one long side and keep that side open underneath.
Real-world examples
Photos of similar builds by other people, shared under open licenses. They show the idea in practice; the details differ from this guide.
Materials
- 1 × 6 in boards (about 20 × 145 mm), rot-resistant wood such as cedar or larch: about 20 ft (6 m) for the sides
- 4 posts 2 × 4 in (45 × 95 mm), 32 in (80 cm) long, for the legs
- 2 × 4 in lumber, about 12 ft (3.6 m), for the lower rails and the cleats that carry the bottom
- 1 × 4 in boards (20 × 95 mm), about 16 ft (5 m), for the bottom slats
- Exterior wood screws, 1¼ in and 2½ in (32 and 63 mm)
- Landscape fabric (water-permeable), enough to line the inside
- Staple gun and stainless or galvanised staples
- Potting mix or a light mix of compost and topsoil
Tools
- Tape measure, pencil and square
- Mitre saw, circular saw or handsaw
- Drill/driver with pilot and countersink bits
- Spirit level
- Clamps
- Safety glasses
Step by step
1Cut all the parts
Cut the side boards to length: two long sides at 4 ft (1.2 m) and two short ends that fit between them. Cut the four legs to 32 in (80 cm), the bottom slats to fit across the inside, and two cleats the length of the inside of the long sides. Sand any rough edges you will touch.
2Assemble the box around the legs
Clamp a leg in each inside corner with its top flush with the top of the sides. Screw each side board to the legs with two 1¼ in screws per board per leg, drilling pilot holes first. Stack the boards so the box is about 9 in (23 cm) deep, and check that the box is square by measuring the diagonals.
3Fit the cleats for the bottom
Screw a 2 × 4 cleat along the inside of each long side, level with the bottom edge of the lowest board, using 2½ in screws into the side and the legs. The cleats carry the slats and the weight of the soil, so use plenty of screws.
4Lay the bottom slats
Lay the 1 × 4 slats across the cleats with gaps of about ¼ in (6 mm) for drainage. Screw each slat down at both ends. If the span is wider than about 2 ft, add a centre support between the cleats so the slats do not sag over time.
5Add the lower rails
Turn the planter upright on a flat surface. Screw 2 × 4 rails between the legs about 6 in (15 cm) above the ground, on at least three sides. Check with the level that the top of the box is level in both directions before you tighten the last screws.
6Line the box
Line the inside with landscape fabric, folding it into the corners and stapling it near the top edge. The fabric lets water out but keeps soil in. Do not use plastic sheeting on the bottom: water needs to drain away or the roots will rot.
7Place it, then fill it
Move the planter to its final spot before you fill it, because full of wet soil it is too heavy to carry. Choose a place with sun for at least six hours if you want vegetables. Fill with potting mix, water it well and top up as it settles.
Tips for a better result
- Shallow-rooted crops do best: herbs, lettuce, spinach, radishes, spring onions and strawberries.
- Containers dry out faster than the ground. In summer you may need to water every day; a layer of mulch helps.
- If it stands on a wooden deck or balcony, check that the surface can take the weight of a box full of wet soil.
- Put felt pads or small plastic feet under the legs on a patio so the end grain does not sit in water.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Making the box too deep. A deep box on legs gets very heavy; most herbs and salads only need about 6 to 9 in (15–23 cm) of soil.
- Skipping the drainage gaps or lining the bottom with plastic.
- Building it to the wrong height. Try the height first by standing at a table of the same height with your arms relaxed.
- Using short screws into end grain for the legs. The legs carry everything; screw through the side boards into the face of the legs.
Safety
- Wear safety glasses when cutting and drilling.
- Clamp boards before cutting them, and keep your hands away from the blade.
- Do not try to move the planter when it is full; it can tip or injure your back.
General guidance only. Follow the instructions for your tools and materials and your local rules, and use a qualified professional for electrical, gas and structural work.
Finishing up
Once planted, an elevated box is one of the most pleasant ways to garden: no kneeling, few weeds and no slugs climbing in easily. Refresh the top few inches of soil with compost each spring, and check the leg screws once a year.
About this guide: written by the DIY Outdoor Builds editors from general, widely used building and gardening practice. Text and illustration © DIY Outdoor Builds. Photos are by the people credited under each one, used under their licenses. Found an error? Let us know.
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